Elderhostel , Sep.19 - Oct. 2, 2004

Wines of France: 
A Comparative Study of Bordeaux & Burgundy 

Having previously enjoyed Elderhostel's "Food and Wine of Provence" tour, we looked forward to this trip with great anticipation. We were not disappointed. A map of our travels can be found here. 

The brochure for this Elderhostel tour described the program as follows:

In this comparative study of great French wines, we take an in-depth look at two of France's leading wine regions: Bordeaux and Burgundy. We encounter some of the finest appellations - with tastings - and become immersed in the life of the growers and traders who contribute to the fame of these wines. We meet workers in the field, gain an appreciation of the "terroir" and production methods, as well as the pricing and marketing of the wines. Amateurs and connoisseurs alike will gain an appreciation of vineyards, cooperatives, and undiscovered villages.

  Here is what we actually did :

I. We met a wonderful group of fellow wine enthusiast.

• There were 27 students, many from CA, but 6 other states and Canada were also represented. .
• As usual the Elderhostel Nanny (Marie Chantal) was magnificent.
• Dewey Markham,Jr.  our teacher at the Wine Institute in Bordeaux was one of the best teachers I have encountered.
• Carol and David have offered to take us to the Kermit Lynch store when we visit our kids in the SF area this Christmas.

II. In Bordeaux we learned about serious wines that improve with age.

• We stayed at the Hotel du Nord in Historic Bordeaux. 
• The Maison du Vin de Bordeaux where our classes were  offered was just next door.
• In the classroom we started to taste wines at 10 AM or so.
• Lunch was at a different restaurant every day. Dinners was usually at the Jardin des Landes.
• We  had dinner on our own twice. We were cheated both times. Most egregiously at Le Cafe Gourmand.
• In the afternoons we toured wineries in the Margot, Sauternes, Graves, Fronsac and St.Emilion appelations.
• We also trekked to Archachon on the Atlantic coast where we learned about the oyster industry 
• We spent many hour walking and exploring Historic Bordeaux. Click here for a slideshow.

III. In Burgundy we studied lighter fruitier wines and we explored historic Beaune.

• Our hotel, the Tulip Inn was an old hotel located in Beaune, the "capital" of the Bourgonge region.
• Beaune was an old walled town with many buildings dating back to the 14th century.
• Our guide was Paul Bouchard, from an old family of local dignitaries.
• We especially enjoyed the visit to the old Hospital du Dieu.
• Walking around in the old town was quite enjoyable.
• Burgundy vineyards are quite fragmented. In many cases, each rows in a given field could be be owned by different chateaux.
• At one point we toured a cellar with 1,000,000 bottles of wine; the oldest being from the 1840s.

IV. In conclusion

• We had a great time
• We prefer the heavier Bordeaux wines over the fruitier Burgundies, but Zinfandels are still our favorites.
• There was never any doubt about what Dewy wanted us to learn about Bordeaux wines.  
• This was not the case in Burgundy.
• At times we wished for more free time.
• The food was not up to the standard set in Provence.
• Be prepared to carefully check your restaurant bills. Also make sure you get the wine you pay for.
• We would recommend the tour for serious wine enthusiasts, others should take a less focused tour.